Modelling shore-side pressure distributions from violent wave breaking at a seawall

Chapter 6 . Wave Refraction , Breaking and Other Near - Shore Processes

Quantifying Scale in Ecology: Lessons from a Wave-swept Shore

Understanding the role of scale is critical to ecologists’ ability to make appropriate measurements, to ‘‘scale up’’ from local, short-term experiments to larger areas and longer times, to formulate models of community structure, and to address important conservation problems. Although these issues have received increased attention in recent years, empirical measurements of the scales of ecolog...

Boussinesq Modelling of Solitary Wave Propagation, Breaking, Runup and Overtopping

A one-dimensional hybrid numerical model is presented of a shallow-water flume with an incorporated piston paddle. The hybrid model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and the nonlinear shallow water equations. It is suitable for breaking and non-breaking waves and requires only two adjustable parameters: a friction coefficient and a wave breaking paramet...

GPU-SPH simulation of Tsunami-like wave interaction with a seawall associated with underwater

Investigation of the waves generated by underwater disturbances gives precious insight into the effect of man-made underwater explosions as well as natural phenomena, such as underwater volcanoes or oceanic meteor impact. On the other hand, prediction of the effects of such waves on the coastal installations and structures is required for preparation worthwhile criteria for coastal engineers to...

Predictive Modelling to Identify Near-Shore, Fine-Scale Seabird Distributions during the Breeding Season

During the breeding season seabirds are constrained to coastal areas and are restricted in their movements, spending much of their time in near-shore waters either loafing or foraging. However, in using these areas they may be threatened by anthropogenic activities such as fishing, watersports and coastal developments including marine renewable energy installations. Although many studies descri...